WEATHERING the STORM

WESTERN NORTH CAROLINA HAS BEEN A STANDOUT DINING DESTINATION FOR DECADES. BUT AFTER HURRICANE HELENE DEVASTATED THE AREA, RESTAURANT OWNERS FACED TOUGH DECISIONS ABOUT THEIR BUSINESSES AND HOW TO MOVE FORWARD

- BY HANNA RASKIN

Long before Asheville, North Carolina, was known for its beer scene, distinctive foods and drinks were central to southern Appalachian communities. From ramps plucked from the earth in springtime to sorghum squeezed in the fall, its unique culinary identity has been a source of pride and tourism dollars. After Hurricane Helene tore through western North Carolina in September 2024, restaurants were amid the wreckage—even if the buildings were undamaged by the storm, owners and cooks still had to reckon with a lack of clean water for weeks. Suddenly, restaurateurs across the region were making impossible calculations to account for the rapid declines in customer traffic, rejected insurance claims, and bottlenecked relief funds while also dealing with vestigial exhaustion from the COVID lockdowns.

Many of downtown Asheville’s best-known eateries were quick to get back in the groove of normal service, following a short period of adjusted menus and disposable cups. But not every spot was so lucky. Just beyond the city’s main business area, dining destinations in Historic Biltmore Village and the River Arts District were totaled. In Madison, Mitchell, and Yancey Counties, among other locations, restaurants suffered similar fates. Yet even with so many places experiencing the crisis, no two owners faced the same set of obstacles. We checked in with some of the storm-ravaged establishments that are navigating very different paths ahead.

Noodle Hole
MARSHALL