THE GOLDEN HOUR

IN SEASON FOR A FEW FLEETING MONTHS, SUN GOLD TOMATOES ARE ONE OF SUMMER'S GREATEST PLEASURES.

- Story by ANDEE GOSNELL Photography by VICTOR PROTASIO

TO MY GREAT MISFORTUNE, I got to be a member of the original “COVID class” at my culinary school. We were quickly shut down in March 2020, and when lessons resumed in the summer, everything just felt a little off. We were masked, and attempting to social distance in a compact kitchen was a constant challenge.

Despite these hurdles, we managed to find small joys. One day, that meant a delivery of Sun Gold tomatoes. They were plump and almost glowing, a deep golden-orange color, and still attached to their stems. We quickly washed them and popped them into our mouths like candy, and their sweetness made us smile.

Five years later, for me, Sun Golds are still one of summer's greatest pleasures. A golden-hued hybrid cherry tomato bred by the Tokita Seed Co. in Japan, the seeds were first sold to American gardeners in 1992. Each bite-size tomato packs a sweet punch that only intensifies as they hit peak ripeness. That sweetness is nuanced, with tropical citrusy notes that temper the tartness often found in their red or yellow nightshade next of kin.

Sun Golds are easy to spot at a farmers market or grocery store thanks to that striking color. When harvested (typically from mid-July to October), they are plucked off the vine at a shade of canary yellow, but this is only the opening act. As they reach full ripeness, they take on the radiant, warm apricot glow of a summer sunset.