PATAGONIA Where the wild things are

Where the wild things are

- INES SALPICO

At the extreme end of global viticulture, Patagonia, in the far south of South America, is producing wines of extreme quality overing the austral section of South America, spanning the southernmost areas of Chile and Argentina, Patagonia is a region of extreme, diverse landscapes. Strong winds and wide diurnal temperature ranges make it a challenging yet appealing place for viticulture - it's certainly not for the faint of heart.

The region's breathtaking terroirs yield both singular expressions of the countries' more popular grapes and unlikely South American iterations of varieties mostly associated with classic cold-climate regions. Without the sheltering effect of the Andes mountains, strong winds blow unhindered. Meanwhile, high latitudes expose the vines to intense UV radiation throughout the growing season's long days. These conditions tease grapes into producing thicker skins while developing diverse aromatic compounds, and the bitterly cold nights help to preserve acidity. Put it all together and you have a winemaker's dream - for those willing to embrace the challenge.

Precocious complexity

Due to its trying natural conditions, as well as its remoteness, Patagonia is a geography in which viticulture at scale isn't easily profitable - or, in some areas, even possible. Hence the region draws winemakers with an appetite for the unique, the unusual and the hard-won. The singular, world-class wines the region produces have made it one of South America's most alluring. But the attention it draws is in inverse proportion to its area under vine, representing less than 2% of Argentina's vineyards (data for Chilean Patagonia aren't available).