RETINOL RULES

Master the skincare powerhouse to get results, not irritation

- Saoirse Hammond

Part miracle worker, part breakout trigger — it’s no wonder retinol has a mixed reputation among skincare aficionados.

Yet, as advanced dermal therapist and Glow Medispa founder Elisa Osmo points out, the vast majority of the hesitation we see today is the result of incorrect application or lack of preparation, rather than the active itself. “Retinol is one of the most researched and effective ingredients that we have for long-term skin health,” she says. “However, results depend on how it’s introduced.” Here, Osmo walks us through the non-negotiables rules of getting started…

IS THERE AN IDEAL WINDOW FOR INTRODUCING IT?

It's less about age and more about your skin goals. Many people start in their mid-to-late twenties as collagen production begins to decline, but it can be introduced earlier with precautions - for concerns like acne. The key is starting appropriately and not rushing into high strengths or overuse.

IS IT SAFE TO JUMP STRAIGHT INTO A HIGH-STRENGTH FORMULA?

Start low and slow. A beginner should begin with a low-strength formulation, ideally in a well-formulated serum or cream that includes soothing ingredients like vitamin E or glycerin. This allows the skin to build tolerance without overwhelming it.

WHAT'S THE BEST WAY TO BUILD TOLERANCE?

I usually recommend starting one to two nights per week, around every third night, and then gradually increasing frequency based on how your skin responds. The goal is consistency over intensity.