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in full bloom

Condé Nast Traveler US

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January - February 2025

Over the past three years, hotelier Fabrizio Ruspoli has turned an old olive farm south of Marrakech into the High Atlas's most intoxicating garden retreat

- Clare Coulson

in full bloom

A winding stone path leads down to a long, shady iron pergola draped in wisteria and twisting jasmine, where Prince Fabrizio Ruspoli di Poggio Suasa, the creative force behind all this romance, is sipping a pink martini. Elegant and dashingly handsome, Ruspoli casts an eye over Olinto Atlas Mountain Retreat, his eight-acre (and expanding) garden estate. Shimmering olive trees underplanted with fragrant floriferous white Atlas rose bushes encircle an expansive pool. A walkway below us cuts through swaying, luminous Pennisetum grasses punctuated by sculptural giant agaves and supersize succulents.

As we begin to wander, drinks in hand, Ruspoli points out a building in the process of being repainted; the celadon green he'd originally chosen turned out not to be precisely the shade he had envisioned. It's this sort of attention to detail, along with flawless taste, that has turned his dream into a living and growing idyll.

imageOlinto's architecture incorporates traditional kasbah features like corner towers; the on-site gardens provide ingredients for many of the restaurant's dishes

I've come to this High Atlas retreat in Marigha, an hour south of Marrakech, after a tip from Polly Nicholson, an author and specialist in historic tulips.

A month earlier she had messaged me excitedly during her stay to tell me that interesting horticultural goings-on were afoot here. But just three years ago, this landscape, set against the snowcapped peaks of Toubkal National Park, was nothing more than a dusty olive tree farm.

FLERE HISTORIER FRA Condé Nast Traveler US

Condé Nast Traveler US

Condé Nast Traveler US

step by step

As autumn gives way to winter in the remote Japanese region of Tohoku, Adam H. Graham hikes through misty forests and past seaside vistas, trying out a new coastal trail that is helping reinvigorate the communities devastated by the 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake and tsunami

time to read

8 mins

November 2025

Condé Nast Traveler US

Condé Nast Traveler US

Don't Skip the Second Cities

A weekend in Columbus, Ohio, proves that an under-the-radar midsize metropolis can offer its own set of memorable experiences

time to read

2 mins

November 2025

Condé Nast Traveler US

Condé Nast Traveler US

ACTOR AND SINGER KEKE PALMER on ANTIGUA

I spent the last seven days of 2023 in Antigua with my parents, my siblings, some extended family, and my son, Leo, who was 10 months old at the time.

time to read

1 mins

November 2025

Condé Nast Traveler US

See Africa by Water

The continent has historically been underserved by cruise lines—until now

time to read

2 mins

November 2025

Condé Nast Traveler US

Visit in Every Season

There's no longer a bad time to experience your favorite destinations and hotels. From autumn leaf-peeping in Italy to winter wellness experiences in South Africa's Winelands, here's what to know

time to read

2 mins

November 2025

Condé Nast Traveler US

Condé Nast Traveler US

space to grow

To outsiders, the fourth-largest city in the United States might seem like an impenetrable sprawl of highways and suburbs. But Houston's art and food scenes are among the country’s finest, the result of vibrant communities and a sense of boundlessness that's always left residents lots of room to dream

time to read

11 mins

November 2025

Condé Nast Traveler US

Condé Nast Traveler US

ROCK OF AGES

Cagliari, Sardinia's singular capital, is synonymous with preservation: Historical relics layer the city, ancient customs define modern life, and the many centenarians share their wisdom with the next generation

time to read

7 mins

November 2025

Condé Nast Traveler US

airlines

Your favorite carriers have been going big on lounges. At New York's JFK, the new Delta One Lounge drew you in with an outdoor terrace and a wellness zone, and fresh offerings are imminent from JetBlue and Qatar Airways. Farther afield, Emirates opened its largest space yet, in Bangkok's Suvarnabhumi Airport, and Singapore Airlines has promised a full revamp at Changi—in case you needed another excuse to spend more time at one of the world's best airports.

time to read

2 mins

November 2025

Condé Nast Traveler US

Condé Nast Traveler US

higher learning

How climbing Mount Kilimanjaro with her dad taught Christine Chitnis what kind of traveler— and what kind of parent—she wanted to become

time to read

4 mins

November 2025

Condé Nast Traveler US

Condé Nast Traveler US

Go Beyond the Usual Luxuries

With so much comfort and beauty as your base, the Maldives is a place to try new things

time to read

4 mins

November 2025

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