See Africa by Water

The continent has historically been underserved by cruise lines—until now

- By MARIA YAGODA

UNDER THE FOREST TAPESTRY of fluffy fruit bats and intersecting branches, I crept closer to a prehistoric-looking giant tortoise that had taken refuge in the shade of some shrubbery. My presence on Aldabra Atoll in the Indian Ocean was improbable for a number of reasons. The world's second-largest coral atoll is not only extremely remote (it's about 700 miles from Victoria, the capital of the Seychelles), but it also requires visitors to adhere to intense biosecurity measures. The atoll is home to 100,000 giant tortoises, the largest population in the world, as well as to nearly 400 other endemic species and subspecies, including the white-throated rail, the western Indian Ocean's last remaining flightless bird.