ON THE EDGE OF CHANGE

SAUDI ARABIA'S BOLD NEW VISION TAKES SHAPE IN RIYADH

- TAMSIN COCKS

"YALLA!" came the call — ‘let’s go’. The camel grunted theatrically, lurching forward as its hind legs rose, unbothered by the possibility of unseating its rider. We lumbered into the desert, flanked by towering sand dunes in the King Abdulaziz Royal Reserve.

Drums and singing welcomed us into camp, alongside traditional gifts of Saudi hospitality: rich, spice-laced coffee; incense wafted into our clothes; and date-based sweet treats.

Zoya, our vibrant female host — her hair and face uncovered - regaled us with stories of her ancestors’ Bedouin culture as we watched big, black beetles scurry across the sand. A soloist played haunting melodies on a stringed oud.

For pre-dinner entertainment, guests scrambled up the dunes to sandboard (with varying levels of success), while others honed their archery skills. Finally, it was time to head to the dining tent, perching on richly patterned cushions at floor-level tables, for a mouthwatering lamb feast that was slow-roasted in the zarb — an ‘earth oven’ or barbecue beneath the sand.

While Bedouin culture dates back thousands of years, this particular camp - created for tourists by the Dates & Dunes Travel Co - wouldn't have been possible even a decade ago. Aside from pilgrimages to the holy sites of Mecca and Medina, foreign tourists were banned from Saudi Arabia until 2019. Then again, with public executions a grim reality, and a strict legal dress code for women in force until 2018, there wasn't exactly a huge demand from the holiday crowd.

VISIONS OF CHANGE