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Road Worriers: Barcelona in Miami? Milan in Perth? Welcome to the league of anywhere

The Guardian

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September 11, 2025

The caramel-coloured tiles on the facade are long gone, and the name changed eight years ago, and there are now wraparound LED screens and an "immersive" museum experience and a lot more bright yellow than you would ideally want.

- Jonathan Liew

Road Worriers: Barcelona in Miami? Milan in Perth? Welcome to the league of anywhere

The caramel-coloured tiles on the facade are long gone, and the name changed eight years ago, and there are now wraparound LED screens and an "immersive" museum experience and a lot more bright yellow than you would ideally want. And it's harder to park right next to the ground like you used to, and many of the locals still insist on calling it El Madrigal. But still they come every other weekend, and buy horchata from the stalls out the front, and sit with the same old friends in the same old bars with the same old faded photos on the wall. Because for all that has changed over the years, this is still their town, their team, their tradition. And when their beloved Villarreal are playing there is nowhere else they would rather be.

But when they play their home game against Barcelona the week before Christmas, the Estadio de la Cerámica is likely to be empty. For the small industrial town of 50,000 just off the A7 motorway, it will feel just like any other night. The club anthems will reverberate not in Castellón but more than 4,000 miles away in the Miami suburbs. And football's dystopian, fungible future will never have been closer to becoming its dystopian, fungible present.

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