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Art of invention

New Zealand Listener

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September 20-26, 2025

Chinese-Australian cook and food writer Hetty Lui McKinnon experiments with flavours.

Art of invention

The original version of this dish appeared in my newsletter, To Vegetables, With Love, a few years ago. It was created as a holiday centrepiece, as there is no celebration table without Brussels sprouts. Here, five-spice powder lends a heady perfume to roasted sprouts and mushrooms; they are then tumbled through nutty soba noodles and smothered in a luscious maple syrup and soy sauce caramel. Soy sauce is a magical addition to caramel, adding a welcome deep savouriness. The hint of spice also tempers the sweetness. This caramel feels ceremonial and elegant. Don't let the word “caramel” scare you off. This version made with maple syrup is easier to control and reduces the risk of burning.

SOBA WITH ROASTED BRUSSELS SPROUTS, MUSHROOMS AND MAPLE-SOY SAUCE CARAMEL
Serves 4-6
Vegan and gluten free

650g Brussels sprouts, trimmed and halved
500g mushrooms (any variety, such as Swiss brown, button, oyster, king oyster), halved
1 tsp five-spice powder
extra-virgin olive oil
sea salt and black pepper
225g soba or thick rice noodles
toasted white or black sesame seeds, to serve
handful of coriander leaves, to serve

MAPLE-SOY SAUCE CARAMEL
3 tbsp maple syrup
30g (1½ tbsp) unsalted vegan or dairy butter
3 tbsp soy sauce or tamari
1 tbsp coconut milk or cream
¼ tsp red chilli flakes

SUBSTITUTE
coconut milk/cream: dairy milk or cream
five-spice powder: ground coriander

Preheat the oven to 220°C. Place the Brussels sprouts and mushrooms on a baking tray. Scatter over the five-spice powder, drizzle with 2-3 tablespoons of olive oil and season well with 1 tsp of sea salt and black pepper. Toss to combine. Roast until the sprouts and mushrooms are golden and tender, about 25-30 minutes.

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