The RECIPE of US

Margarita Forés’s indelible mark on the Philippine culinary landscape is now being institutionalised by her son Amado who shares the same passion for food and respect for tradition and roots

- Chit L Lijauco

The nephew of a former senator of the Philippines, Jorge Amado Forés, took up political science at the College of the Holy Cross in Worcester, Massachusetts to perhaps walk a similar path in politics. “But the wind did not blow Mar’s way and Amado did not get a chance to build a career in government,” his mother, the award-winning chef Margarita says. Yet, the story of mother and son clearly talks about a connection stronger than any influence; and whether or not politics will beckon, Amado’s path would always have a weakness to bend towards a career in food.

Which it did, but not immediately. Amado remembers three moments that led to his decision. “After graduation, I worked in a Filipino restaurant in New York called Jeepney. I was like an intern there, involved in the operations, responsible for opening the restaurant each day and making sure everything was in place. There I discovered my passion.”

The second time, he says, was when his uncle Oye of Mamou restaurant and his son Raul took him and his mother Margarita to Puerto Galera. While at a restaurant there, Oye commented, “If this Italian guy could do this stuff, fresh pasta, all the way out here, you guys can do the same in Manila and even more!” Amado took to heart his uncle’s words.

“Then my mum and I went to Italy,” Amado goes to the clincher.

“He was always telling me that we’ve never ever taken a trip together, just him and me,” Margarita says. “He’d say, ‘You keep travelling with your team, with your chefs, but not just us.’ So, in 2018, Amado put together our itinerary and we spent time in Rome and Emilia-Romagna.”