I feel solidarity with the courageous growers who stake so much on challenging the English weather'

It's surprising, in a sense, that the category of English wine that's the first to establish itself as seriously good is the most expensive: the bubbly. Our still whites haven't yet quite produced show models to follow; and reds, often struggling to reach full ripeness, are so far generally considered a bit thin. The best Essex Pinot Noir, notably from the Danbury ridge, which looks south over the valley of the Crouch river, has everything you can hope for - and costs as much as good red Burgundy. You don't save money by staying close to home.

- HUGH JOHNSON

I do feel solidarity, though, with the courageous growers who stake so much on challenging history and the English weather. Over the centuries, it has been our (that is British) taste and thirst that has steered the reputations and fortunes of many, perhaps most, European wines.

Meanwhile, if early reports from producers are to be believed, 2025 may be one of our best vintages.