A ST-EMILION STORY Château Pavie

The passing of its former owner in July this year signalled the end of a truly formative era for this now-famed Right Bank Bordeaux estate. Almost rags to riches, its rise to the top is a captivating tale of personal ambition and defiant determination

- STORY GEORGIE HINDLE

Few names are as synonymous with contemporary St-Emilion as Château Pavie – one of just two St-Emilion estates currently with the top rank of premier grand cru classé A – and Gérard Perse, its late owner and former self-made supermarket mogul turned wine empire builder.

An unrelenting dream with quality and hospitality at its heart has seen the Perse universe evolve and expand from wine estates to hotels, restaurants, brasseries and now even an ice cream parlour all nestled among the cobbled streets of the medieval village, the crown jewel of the Right Bank region.

It’s not hard to see Pavie’s clear terroir credentials, given that vine cultivation here dates back to the 4th century – supposedly the oldest alongside Château Ausone. It’s a rare and relatively extensive single block, comprising the famous limestone plateau and sweeping south-facing slopes that tumble into an amphitheatre of vines dropping from 85m to 20m and basking in the full sun above the Dordogne valley.

‘Wine is of course the main job,’ says Henrique Da Costa, son-in-law of Perse, who has for more than two decades been part of the family team running the estate with Perse’s daughter Angélique (pictured, p53). ‘But it’s also everything around it – in order to give guests the full experience, you need gastronomy, you need hospitality. Quality, quality, quality – that was always Gérard’s rule.’

And it shows. From the meticulously tended vines and beautifully adorned commemorative bottles to the magnificent marble-clad reception and tasting rooms and five-star accommodation. Pavie’s success story is as impressive as Perse’s, with slick marketing and a bucketful of options for any wine lover wanting to enjoy the delights of the region.