What to pair with tea

Thanks to its inherent complexities, tea is particularly adept at pairing with food, making it a great alternative to wine

- FIONA BECKETT

The idea of drinking tea with a meal is, of course, nothing new.

As a teen I used to do it regularly in Chinese restaurants with my parents - inhaling the sweet, heady scent of jasmine, watching the chrysanthemum flowers unfurl. And tea lists have been common in high-end restaurants for a while, particularly those with an Asian clientele.

But tea pairing, especially as part of a tasting menu, is relatively new and increasing in popularity due to the growing demand for sophisticated no- and low-alcohol options. One third of diners at London’s Ikoyi restaurant go for the tea pairing, particularly early in the week and at lunch, says head sommelier Federico Quintavalle.

Tea has much to offer the wine lover, with a similarly diverse range of styles and origins. ‘True, it has no acidity, no sweetness and no alcohol, but it compensates in terms of tannins, texture and flavour profile,’ says Quintavalle. Added to that, you can play around with the brewing technique: ‘Each tea has its own temperature and timing.’