From Trinklets to Closets

Why accessorise with jewellery when you can wear them instead?

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What’s your earliest memory of jewellery? The mangalsutra on your mother’s neck? The bangles on your grandmother’s wrist? One way or another, it is highly probable that the concept of jewellery is embedded in our mind as a piece of accessory worn over clothes. We are so accustomed to seeing jewellery as an extra rather than the core of an outfit that the idea of it being a starting point for a new clothing might baffle the most. But this is exactly where haute couture is headed, making jewellery the most celebrated muse of time.

The first time this concept caught my attention, I was still an aspiring fashion student and the 2013 Fall/Winter collection of Dolce & Gabbana just hit the runway. It was iconic, era-defining and one of the first times when an obvious impact of jewellery on modern high couture was seen. The standout piece, a celestial gold peplum corset, was embellished with semi-precious stones that mimicked emeralds, rubies and amethyst. Cut to this year’s Met Gala: Isha Ambani in a custom Anamika Khanna. The geometric pattern on her tailored waistcoat and jacket with a long train was embellished with similar stones of green and red, along with diamond buttons on the back.

The rise of a minimalist aesthetic with a nod to comfort and effortless style, parallel to the rebirth of our deep-rooted maximalist culture, has produced a new outlook in fashion—statement details on the clothes themselves. It replaces the layers and layers of jewellery with adornments that capture the essence of luxury without compromising comfort directly onto the garments. The idea is not to ditch jewellery, instead, it is simply being reimagined in more artful and more wearable ways.