THE LAST SHANGRI-LA

Mount Everest rises like a beacon as Cathy Wagstaff ventures into the Himalayan Kingdom of Bhutan, where happiness is a national treasure, forests are sacred and ancient traditions flow as deep as its valleys.

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It begins in the clouds somewhere between Kathmandu and Paro, as our Druk Air commercial flight glides through cobalt skies, the jagged white peaks of the Himalayas rising into view. Mount Everest stands sentinel among them, shimmering in the thin light, and for a few spellbinding minutes it feels like a private scenic charter.

The landing into Paro, Bhutan's only international airport, is as dramatic as the approach: a steep descent through mountain folds, the valley floor rising swiftly to meet us.

Known to its people as Druk Yul, the 'Land of the Thunder Dragon', Bhutan feels, even in this first breath of arrival, like arriving in a living fable. The airport showcases richly carved woodwork, vibrant frescoes and mural depictions of myth and legend.

The air is startlingly clear, the mountains sharp-edged against an unbroken sky. Tourism here is measured in intention, not volume. Visitor numbers are capped, and tourists must travel with a licensed operator and pay a sustainable development fee of US$100 per person per day - a contribution that supports the nation's healthcare, education and conservation efforts. We're travelling with Ventours, an upmarket tour operator that has balanced cultural immersion with indulgent comfort in two extraordinary hotels over our curated, five-day journey.

My companions for the next four days are a lively group of eight travel advisors, two outstanding Ventours guides and the owner of the Australian representation company - a dynamic mix that quickly proves to be great fun. Our local guide, Bap, shares his deep knowledge and passion for Bhutan each day along with his warm smile and impeccable gho (the traditional garment for men), and driver Sangey, ever-patient on winding roads, greets us with the phrase I'll hear often:

New heights, no lights