WHEELS OF TIME

IN 1947, TRAINS CARRYING REFUGEES ACROSS THE BORDER WERE SYMBOLIC OF THE TUMULT OF THE PARTITION.

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KHUSHWANT SINGH CAPTURED THE CHAOS OF THE TIME IN HIS NOVEL, 'TRAIN TO PAKISTAN'

FOR SOME, THE RHYTHMIC clatter of a train evokes childhood memories-the excitement of family trips, the aroma of chai-cutlet wafting through the air, and the pleasure of looking out on unfamiliar landscapes through barred windows.

Trains symbolise the freedom of exploration; however, in 1947, these very symbols of connection became harbingers of horror for millions.

India, after centuries of British rule, was finally gaining independence. But freedom came at a heavy price. The subcontinent was divided into two nations: India, with a Hindu majority, and Pakistan, a Muslim homeland.

This triggered a mass migration. Millions of Muslims fled towards Pakistan, while Hindus and Sikhs journeyed the opposite way-many on overcrowded, stifling trains. By 1948, over 15 million people were displaced, with around one to two million dead.

But before this horrific violence, there was peace. Communities coexisted harmoniously, prayers from mandirs and masjids filled the air, and the rhythm of trains lulled residents to sleep, as author Khushwant Singh captured in his 1956 novel, "Train To Pakistan." An extract from the book here.

Mano Majra has always been known for its railway station. Since the bridge has only one track, the station has several sidings where less important trains can wait, to make way for the more important. A small colony of shopkeepers and hawkers has grown up around the station to supply travellers with food, betel leaves, cigarettes, tea, biscuits and sweetmeats. This gives the station an appearance of constant activity and its staff a somewhat exaggerated sense of importance.