What the cluck has happened to how chicken tastes?

Is it just me or (here we go - ed) does the majority of food no longer actually taste of anything? Chicken. It is said that many things taste like this particular form of poultry. Chicken doesn’t.

- ANDREW HAIGH

Not unless you pay for a bird that has been fed the fanciest of diets, had a pampering massage every day and four weeks holiday each year in a foreign beach resort.

Buy a bog standard clucker and you'll find the experience of eating it peculiarly devoid of anything approaching flavour. The rule of thumb seems to be that if you can only afford a cheap and not so cheerful product, that doesn’t include a sensation that’s going to tickle the taste buds. If you want to savour even a modicum of flavour, you'll have to dig deeper into your pocket.