Pastoral and scenic views at JW Marriott Jeju Resort & Spa

JEJU - The island bursts with juicy tangerines, and is where women well into their 80s free dive for seafood against a backdrop of dormant volcanoes and tea estates.

- Mavis Teo

In summer, city folks from Seoul come to swim in the silvery depths that surround the island. In autumn, they lose themselves in the fields of tall silver grass.

These are among the reasons the Seoul-Jeju route is the busiest domestic air route in the world. According to the Jeju Tourism Association, 13.34 million people visited Jeju in 2023. More than 90 percent were South Koreans, although more foreigners are heading to the island these days.

Jeju city, an urbanised centre with malls, high-rise hotels and casinos, occupies the northern half of the island. Neon-lit billboards hang above touristy areas like Black Pork Street and Noodle Street.

In contrast, the south is scenic and pastoral. In October 2023, I stayed at the JW Marriott Jeju Resort & Spa, located near the southern Seogwipo city.