Mediaeval city with modern comforts

The Estonian capital of Tallinn, with its mediaeval Old Town, takes you back to the 15th century, but with contemporary touches

- Krist Boo Senior Business Correspondent

TALLINN, Estonia — My two-hour walking tour around Tallinn's 15th-century Old Town in February (str.sg/9Wgc, pay as you wish) is more than just a journey through mediaeval streets. It offers a glimpse into Estonia's complex relationship with Russia.

The tour — which sweeps past the Dominican Monastery Claustrum, Tallinn City Hall and St Mary's Cathedral — is most interesting not so much for its historical facades, but for the complicated feelings this 34-year-old country has about its place in Europe.

One striking observation is the presence of Ukraine's yellow-and-blue state emblem flying alongside Estonia's blue, black and white flag at some government buildings. This gesture of solidarity reflects Estonia's support for Ukraine following Russia's 2022 invasion.

The sentiment is deeply rooted in history. Estonia, along with its Baltic neighbours Latvia and Lithuania, endured multiple invasions and occupations by Russia over the last century. These occupations were driven by strategic motives such as territorial security and maritime access.

Estonia enjoyed a brief period of independence between the two world wars before being annexed by the Soviet Union in 1940. After a brief German occupation during World War II, it was reabsorbed into the Soviet Union in 1944. It was not until 1991, just before the collapse of the Soviet bloc, that Estonia regained its independence.

Today, about 300,000 ethnic Russians remain in Estonia, making up a significant portion of the country's 1.3 million population. However, integration has been limited. According to my Estonian hosts, many within this community identify more as pan-Europeans, preferring to play up their connection to Europe rather than align themselves with Estonia's national narrative, or learn Estonian norms and language.