Fine dining in Kunming

Sample savoury cocktails, wild mushrooms and China's version of prosciutto ham in Yunnan's capital city

- Yeo Sam Jo

It was the start of my trip, but I could already understand his enthusiasm. The southwestern province is renowned for many things that draw visitors to China: breathtaking landscapes, rich cultural heritage and my favourite pu'er tea, to name a few.

At 1,900m above sea level, provincial capital Kunming is called the "City of Eternal Spring", thanks to a year-round cool climate, with temperatures hovering around 20 deg C even on the hottest days. The weather allows sweaty tourists and fussy flora to flourish.

The area's main attractions such as the karst landforms of the Stone Forest, which I last visited on a school trip in 2000 have remained unchanged for centuries.

But Kunming has evolved in other ways, and is now a foodie haven with flavours that challenge and excite. From savoury cocktails and poisonous mushrooms to speciality coffee and flower mooncakes, here is how to sample your way through the city.

COCKTAIL HIDEOUTS

On the fifth floor of Jen Kunming by Shangri-La (rooms from 660 yuan or S$120 a night with buffet breakfast; 590 yuan without breakfast), where I stay, is Suma Bar (@sumakunming on Instagram), a spacious lounge with a patio and live jazz performances on weekends.

Suma means both "woman" and "azalea" in the Yi ethnic language, a nod to the city's flowery reputation. Yunnan is home to 25 ethnic minorities, of which 15 are indigenous to the province.

On the menu are 20 novel cocktails (108 yuan each) crafted by SG Group, the award-winning collective led by Japanese master mixologist Shingo Gokan.

The drinks showcase Yunnan's biodiversity by blending modern mixology with local ingredients some, such as lavender and rosemary, plucked fresh from the bar's rooftop herb garden and fall under four broad flavours: bitter, umami, fruity/floral and spice.