In rural West Bengal, an 18th-century temple believed to be site of first Durga Puja

Excerpt: Legends and myths aside, archaeological evidence suggests that in Paschim Bardhaman's Garh Jungle, there was indeed a medieval temple which became linked to the worship of the Shyamarupa avatar of the Hindu goddess Durga, a practice that continues even today.

- NEHA BANKA

It is not easy to find Garh Jungle. Located deep inside the jungles of West Bengal’s Paschim Bardhaman district, it is a struggle to reach this temple if one relies on Google Maps for directions. For many believers, Garh Jungle is considered to be the place where the first ritualistic practice of Durga Puja was held sometime in the 2nd century B.C., with some mythological beliefs attributing its origins to Surath, a king of the Kalinga dynasty who ruled during the period. Over the years, a temple came up at that location, cementing its association with the worship of the goddess.

The unpaved, winding roads to Garh Jungle are densely lined with thick sal trees. The nearest villages from Garh Jungle, with mostly indigenous Santal populations, are at least 40 minutes away by car. The red soil of Bardhaman is wet after the rain and not a soul can be seen anywhere near the temple site.

THE LEGEND OF GARH JUNGLE

There is no accessible historical documentation related to Garh Jungle, but according to local folklore, when Surath once suffered defeat and severe losses in battle, he went into the nearby forests now in West Bengal’s Paschim Bardhaman district to the ashram of Hindu sage Medhas, also known as sage Medha. This story is also briefly mentioned in an entry in the Odisha State Archives in context of the history of the Kalinga dynasty that was spread across the modern-day states of Odisha and Andhra Pradesh.

According to mythology, Medhas was a devotee of the Hindu goddess Durga and helped the Kalinga king Surath create an idol of the deity and pray for months on end. The Odisha State Archives say that according to myths and legends, it is believed that following his prayers at Garh Jungle, Surath won back his kingdom and overcame his losses.