VIVA VALENCIA

After catastrophic floods swept through the Spanish city last year, Valencia is thriving once more

- Michael Hodges

In October 2024, the world was shocked by television footage of storm water surging through southeastern Spain's Valencia region. Cataclysmic floods took the lives of 224 people and caused billions of euros' worth of damage; the worst of it was in smaller towns in the greater metropolitan area and in southern suburbs like Sedavi, where scores of cars were piled up by the water. The city of Valencia itself, along with the many wonderful things in it, was spared and, four months later, is very much open to visitors.

There are 300 days of sunshine a year in Valencia; go now and you’re very likely to hit one of them. Man-made climate change allowing, there are, on average, only three days of rain in March, and temperatures can reach 20C.

If it does rain, retreat into the old town and search out vintage 20th-century wall tiles in the bric-a-brac shops, or sip some sunshine with an agua de Valencia, the city’s own cocktail, made from freshly squeezed orange juice, vodka and cava. Aficionados admire the version served at Cafe de Las Horas, the baroquely ornate bar on the Calle Conde de Almodovar.

If your tastes are more conservative, drink at Casa Montana on Calle de Josep Benlliure in the historic Cabanyal district. This bar, which has been here since 1836, is lined with barrels of Valencian wines and spirits including cazalla, the city’s potent version of anis.