CITY OF GOD

Fred Garratt-Stanley communes with the beautiful game, and more besides, on a trip to Maradona-obsessed Naples

- Fred Garratt-Stanley

In recent years, Naples has become a trendy city break destination, renowned for its characterful bars, much-lauded pizzas and ties to cultural heavyweights like the author Elena Ferrante and actor Sophia Loren.

But perhaps the most important part of the southern Italian city's identity is its extraordinary passion for football. Specifically, for one club: SSC Napoli.

From the chaotic, glorious years of legendary World Cup winner Diego Maradona, whose seven seasons at Napoli were the best in the club's history, to the hedonistic release of their long-awaited 2022/23 Scudetto triumph (their first league title in more than 30 years), football has consistently shaped the cultural landscape of this metropolis.

Today, the sport's significance is evident in the hundreds of football-centric murals, shrines, posters and graffiti that cover the city, demonstrating unmatchable enthusiasm for the beautiful game. Sadly, Largo Maradona, the square dedicated to Napoli's best-ever player, is currently closed to the public after local vendors became frustrated with police attempts to shut down its stalls.

Here, colourful flags are strung from balconies, while the concrete walls below are emblazoned with vivid paintings of Maradona's finest moments, including a famous mural painted by Mario Filardi.