Dermats or AI?

AI-driven advice and influencers replace dermatologists and leave young Indians vulnerable to skin damage that needs attention

- Anjali Kochhar

Over the past two years, India has witnessed the rise of a new kind of skincare authority, one that doesn't sit in clinics, doesn't examine skin under proper lighting, and doesnt ask about your hormonal cycle, allergies, or medical history. Instead, it lives on screens.

AI-driven skincare apps and influencer-led routines are now being trusted as much as, and sometimes more than, trained dermatologists. However, beneath the glossy claims of “instant skin analysis” and “dermat-approved routines,” dermatology clinics across urban India are reporting a quiet epidemic: damaged skin barriers, flareups worsened by misdiagnosis, aggressive layering of actives, and young adults who no longer know what their real skin type is.

A 2024 Kantar Beauty Study found that 71% of Indian Gen Z consumers try skincare products recommended by influencers, while 58% have used AI tools for routine suggestions, a sharp jump from just 22% in 2022. Yet, the same report notes that over 52% of these users experienced new or worsened skin problems soon after following these routines.

AI can scan, not read the skin

AI-powered apps promise quick answers: upload a selfie, get a diagnosis. Except the fact that what they provide is not a diagnosis at all — it’s an algorithmic assumption.

Dr. Aparajita Lamba, dermatologist and aesthetic medicine specialist at Iksana Wellness, sees the consequences daily. “Social media and AI have made skincare advice more accessible than ever, but also more generalised. In my practice, I've seen that most people who come to me dont actually know their true skin type... Someone who believes they have oily skin might follow a dry-combination skin routine they saw online or try an AI-generated regimen that doesnt suit them. This mismatch often leads to breakouts, irritation, or even long-term barrier damage.”