Dressing up during a conflict

Clothing becomes less about fashion and more about holding on to a sense of self when times are uncertain

- SUJATA ASSOMULL

We've all read the stories of how women turn to fashion in times of crisis. During World War II in the UK under the shadow of the Blitz, people still dressed for evenings out, holding on to elegance as a way of refusing to surrender normal life. You could say the mantra was: keep calm, wear red lipstick and carry on.

More recently, when the Russian invasion of Ukraine began, the global fashion industry turned its gaze to Ukraine, celebrating its crafts and heritage, while designers from the region found themselves in the spotlight.

Living through a moment of conflict myself and doing so as a fashion commentator, has shifted my understanding of clothing’s social and cultural role. Of course, life in Dubai remains far more stable than in places directly affected by the war. The city continues to function with its usual sense of order, even as the region sits at the centre of escalating geopolitical tensions. Weeks into the crisis, the sound of alerts has become a strange kind of new normal. There is caution in the air, and an awareness that things can change quickly.

It has made me think about dressing and identity in a way I never have before. I've realized that getting dressed can be both centering and grounding. As Dubai-based designer Reema Ameer, who is Lebanese-Syrian, puts it, “It’s less about control or normalcy and more about refusing to feel defeated. Dressing well becomes a way of protecting your spirit.”

Cashmere, jeans, and heels have become her uniform over the past few weeks. “I've been rediscovering my favourite jewellery. These small, deliberate acts lift my mood and help me hold on to a sense of self,” she says. The ritual of dressing brings comfort; slipping into those heels or fastening a statement cuff can deliver a much-needed moment of lightness.