A call to support Darjeeling teas

Every year, when it's time for the year's spring harvest, my thoughts turn to Darjeeling.

- Aravinda Anantharaman

Lately, these come with a lingering anxiety and a growing despondence. In the years that I have made my acquaintance with tea, Darjeeling has gone from being a very special tea to one that is struggling to stay afloat. Several factors have brought it to this place, from climate to labour to politics along with an oversupply of tea in the global market.

There are 87 gardens that come under the geographical indicator for Darjeeling tea, that allows a tea to be sold as Darjeeling. Of these, quite a few have closed this season as they are simply unable to run it profitably. And yet, here we are with the first flush teas. There's a resilience to planters—and their tea bushes—that keeps them at it, season after season.