High camp and screaming, irrepressible brilliance

ONE of the things that restaurant owners invariably find most annoying about critics and we cannot do the full, unabridged list as we would literally be here all day - is that we visit too early. That, blinded by our manic desire to be first, we show up and paw at the glass like cats, desperate to be let in to pass judgment on something that isn't quite ready. My rejoinder to this has always been that it is really an issue about the ceding of control as much as journalistic impatience; that, really, the "right time" to visit for most chefs will be some amorphous, faraway point in the future that's specifically dictated by them.

- Jimi Famurewa

Chets

65-69 Shepherd's Bush Green, W12 8TX. Meal for two plus drinks about £100. Open Sunday to Thursday 7am-midnight and Friday and Saturday 7am-1am; chetsrestaurant.co.uk