SEASON OF CHANGE

Spring/Summer 2026 will be remembered for its extraordinary debuts. A look at five noteworthy shows.

- CHIA WEI CHO ÔNG

CHANEL

At the Grand Palais (Karl Lagerfeld's favourite playground), a glowing solar system hung above the audience and a glossy floor mirrored "stars" scattered across the vaulted ceilings, making everyone feel as though they were at the centre of the universe. Clearly imbued with the idea of universality, Artistic Director Matthieu Blazy explored iconic Chanel codes such as tweed, black and white, and fabulous costume jewellery.

Featuring lovely tweed and tweed-like fabrics, sharp blackand-white looks with flapper-inspired silhouettes, shirts crafted in collaboration with Charvet, and distressed 2.55 flap bags, the collection was nostalgic yet contemporary.

As always, the craftsmanship dazzled. Lightweight tweeds frayed into caviar-beaded hems, intricately embellished jersey dresses floated, while accessories featured baroque-style pearls and coral motifs. And in a nod to Chanel's couture heritage, feathers embellished earrings, tops, and that breathtaking finale skirt to mimic flowers in a modern, edgy twist on the camellia.

Blazy's debut was an ambitious opening statement. Yet, at times, the emphasis on universality and technical intellect slightly eclipsed the house's mischievous, free-spirited DNA.

DIOR

Jonathan Anderson brought his trademark high-camp humour to Dior. As part of the opening short, British filmmaker Adam Curtis incorporated horror movie scenes into haphazard sequences, perhaps hinting at the pressures of running a major fashion brand.

Anderson, who has a knack for distilling a brand's essence, while keeping it legible yet abstract to reveal its underlying codes, reinterpreted Dior's historical silhouettes with clever twists.