ALL EARS

In the kitchen, on the patio, at the campsite or right in the field, shucking sweet corn is one of summer's great unifying rituals.

- STACEY BRUGEMAN

It starts by tugging that first outer husk, so stiff that it breaks in half. Thin inner leaves squeak as they peel away from their neighbors. That reveals a thatch of iridescent silk, each thread flossed between the kernels. Finally, the reward-an ingredient with stories to tell and bushels of culinary potential.

SUCCOTASH SALAD WITH SMOKED TROUT

Michael Pearl, of Pearl Family Farm in Missouri, grew up eating succotash, a dish with origins in precolonial New England. "I slice corn off the cob," he says. "I take my onions. I take my green zucchini. I saute that in a skillet with a little bit of butter and behold, you've got succotash." We paired the essence of his formula with smoked fish and tender lettuce for a light summer meal.

In this center-plate salad, salty smoked trout plays off the sweetness of fresh corn and a maple-laced dressing.

START TO FINISH 20 MINUTES

1. For succotash: In a large skillet, heat 1 tablespoon sunflower oil over mediumhigh. Add squash, corn and lima beans. Cook until many of the pieces are just golden, 5 to 7 minutes. Season with 1/4 teaspoon each salt and black pepper. Let cool.

2. For vinaigrette: In a large bowl, whisk together vinegar, shallot, maple syrup, mustard, 1/4 teaspoon salt and a few grinds of additional black pepper. While whisking, add 4 tablespoons sunflower oil in a slow, steady stream until mixture is emulsified. Add succotash; toss to coat.