WHY NOT TODDY?

Toddy sits at a crossroads—caught between the allure of craft liquor reinvention and the quiet dignity of staying local. While feni and mahua have found new life in premium bottles and cocktail menus, this coconut sap-based elixir remains rooted in its coastal traditions, ephemeral and unlabelled

- Sharan Sanil

The first time I remember buying toddy was two years ago during a summer spent wandering the toddy shops of Mangalore. I discovered small, unassuming shacks serving the freshest seafood and jugs of cloudy palm wine. I still remember the first sip—sweet, sour, and slightly fizzy—a sensory snapshot of coastal India. It was cheap, unpretentious, and brimming with history, much like the toddy shops themselves. These spaces felt like time capsules, where fishermen and labourers, local retirees and college students gathered after long days, their conversations blending with the salty breeze and the aroma of fried fish.

Yet, as I’ve watched India’s recent embrace of indigenous craft liquors like feni and mahua—both of which have been rebranded and marketed to modern drinkers—I can’t help but wonder: why hasn’t toddy, with its deep cultural roots and unique character, been invited to the party?

Why Toddy Stays Local and Uncommercialised

Freshness: Liquor consultancy maven Vikram Achanta brings up one of toddy’s biggest challenges starts right out the gate; its shelf life. “The problem with toddy is that it’s a fermented drink that spoils quickly, unlike distilled spirits like feni or mahua, which have a longer shelf life. Without solving this, toddy will remain a local curiosity,” continues Achanta.

Consistent Availability: Amar Shrivastava, a consultant and industry expert, added, “Consistency is a big challenge. If you’re planning to scale toddy, raw material availability becomes unpredictable. A bad season can completely disrupt production.” He elaborated further on economic constraints, emphasising the need for sufficient margins. “In any craft liquor venture, you need at least 60-70 per cent margins to support distributors, retailers, and marketing efforts. Without that, scaling is nearly impossible,” he said.