The CULTURAL CONVERGENCE

FROM MADRAS CHECKS TO CONTEMPORARY INDO-WESTERN FUSION, INDIAN DESIGN CONTINUES TO INSPIRE AND RESHAPE FASHION ON A GLOBAL STAGE.

- Abhya Adlakha

Madras-plaid, originating in the 13thcentury fishing village of Madras, India, began as a lightweight, breathable fabric ideal for the sweltering summers on the southeastern coast of India. Initially used by the labour class, this handwoven textile, also known as Bleeding Madras, became quite famous for its unique characteristic of its bleeding colour with every wash.

The fabric’s journey to global fame began when Elihu Yale, then Governor of Madras, donated the checks to Yale College. After that, it just spiralled from there—by the late 19th century, Sears popularised Madras shirts in the USA.

By the 1950s, it was a staple among Ivy League students and affluent holiday-goers. In 1958, Brooks Brothers introduced Madras checks to the American market, further boosting its popularity.

Trickling down over the years, the fabric has become synonymous with prestigious fashion, being featured in collections by Ralph Lauren and J. Crew. Even brands like Hermès, Tory Burch, Dior, and Gucci continue to showcase Madras’ plaid in their creations. However, Madras-plaid is just one striking example of how India’s profound influence on global fashion — its exquisite craftsmanship and diverse textiles — has often been overlooked or underappreciated through the ages.