Shades of Rosé

Rioja and Navarra share a love for Grenache, producing two very distinct styles of rosé, writes Elizabeth Gabay MW, which succsesfully enrich the category as her tasting notes illustrate

- 

The qualities of the Grenache grape variety in producing exceptional rosé wine in Provence have propelled it to world attention with the likes of Sacha Lichine and Gérard Bertrand declaring it the BEST variety for rosé. Grenache’s ability to be picked early for fresh acidity and pale colour, while already having enough sugar and ripeness to make charming wines, has made it the dominant variety in Provence and across southern France.

What has largely been forgotten is that it is Spanish by origin. Garnacha (Grenache), a principal variety in the rosados and claretes of Navarra and Rioja, is said to have originated in the mediaeval kingdom of Aragon which spread from northwestern Spain to southern Italy, including the islands in the middle. Its earliest name was Tinto Aragonés (red from Aragon). At some point, Garnacha cultivation spread up the Ebro River, from its Catalonian origins to Navarra and Rioja, where it remained a minor variety until the vineyards were replanted after the outbreak of phylloxera.

Navarra

The appellation of Navarre touches the Ebro River at its southern limit, where it then curves around the eastern end of Rioja. From there, the appellation stretches north to the foothills of the Pyrenees. There are five sub-regions. Ribera Baja, the southern river region with gentle low hills and a warm Mediterranean climate extending up the Ebro valley. Next up is the biggest region, Ribera Alta, with a large diversity of terroir, and strong competition from local agriculture. The northern part of Navarra is divided into three regions: Tierra Estella to the northwest, with the strongest Atlantic influence; Valdizarbe in the north, with the cool mountain climate; and