THE ORIGINAL VISIONARIES

The historical significance of ESSENCE has been evident from the very beginning. Here, we explore the legacy of the publication through its vital engagement with fashion

- By Robyn Mowatt

In 1968, Jonathan Blount, Cecil Hollingsworth, Edward Lewis and Clarence O. Smith established Essence Communications, Inc. Since then, the publication birthed from that entity has served as a constant barometer of the state of Black America. As ESSENCE magazine was created for and dedicated to Black women, the intentionality behind its imagery felt refreshing and relevant. The cultural power of showing us in all our authentic glory reached individuals who had yearned for a publication that spoke to them. When it came specifically to Black fashion history, the magazine featured style innovators including Naomi Sims, Patti LaBelle, Grace Jones, Tracee Ellis Ross, Iman and Tyra Banks on its covers. Before diversity became a buzzword, ESSENCE was a home for insightful and accessible stories that showed our fashion range.

ESSENCE was created during a moment that felt ripe for change. In the early 1970s, Black America was at a crossroads. On the heels of the Civil Rights Movement, the Black Power political aesthetic had forced its way from the streets and into households, with good reason. Cultural representation was monolithic during this period—almost to a point where it could be described as exclusionary. Against this backdrop, Blount, Hollingsworth, Lewis and Smith decided to take action on remedying the lack of publications in America that addressed Black women and their plight. They understood that Black women’s experiences, lifestyles and beauty standards were territories worth exploring. And the marketing gap was clear: Despite Black women shelling out huge sums of money for goods and services, no publication was targeting them in a sincere way.