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POSTCARD FROM OXFORDSHIRE

Best of British

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May 2025

Bob Barton plays Hooky and visits the city of dreaming spires

POSTCARD FROM OXFORDSHIRE

After 25 years of work, my employer gave me a long service bonus of £400. I promptly went out and spent it on a new bicycle, which I'd long promised myself. I was proud of that smoke-grey Scott hybrid. This was in 2002 and one of my first ventures was to pedal around the Oxfordshire Cycleway. The 175-mile route circled the county, using mainly winding lanes and byways. I've still got the printed route guide with its handy lists, such as bike repair shops and youth hostels. The ride taught me that the best way to explore anywhere is at cycling pace and away from major roads.

The jaunt took three days, and I enjoyed the bucolic countryside. I visited pubs stuck in a timewarp, such as the Cherry Tree at Stoke Row, Henley-on-Thames then with a stone floor, musty aroma and ale poured from a cask cradled in a side room. I stopped at village post offices for the occasional sustenance of a pork pie or pasty. Sadly, my precious bike was stolen about three years later. Maintenance of the Oxfordshire Cycleway ceased about the same time, although there are still some signposts dotted around. Now, the country pubs that survive seem to be aimed at diners – Brakspear, the long-established Henley brewery, closed the same year as my trip, while the number of village shops has declined.

imageI recently returned to some of the places to explore things I missed 23 years ago. Chipping Norton was an overnight stop on my original trip. It's a distinctive, community-minded town with interesting shops. A favourite industrial landmark sits in a valley on the outskirts: the former Bliss & Sons Tweed Mill. Built in the 1870s, I think this ornate factory - long converted to apartments - was pretending to be a stately home. Who would guess it turned out miles of khaki cloth for the army during World War One?

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