OUT OF SEASON

BRAVING FREEZING TEMPERATURES, TOR JOHNSON ENJOYS A RARE OPPORTUNITY TO EXPLORE THE PACIFIC NORTHWEST'S SAN JUAN ISLANDS IN TOTAL TRANQUILLITY

- TOR JOHNSON

The weather looked truly terrible for a sail through the San Juan Islands. The week's National Weather Service forecasts displayed that unwelcome 'cloud and rain shower' graphic, puffy gale symbols, and even a few icicle icons. But what did I expect in December at 48° north latitude, on Washington's west coast?

Yet I was determined to go sailing. Optimism, that essential sailor's friend, ruled the day. I counted some factors in my favour: tucked 70 miles inside the Strait of Juan de Fuca, the San Juans lie in the rain shadow of both the Olympic mountain range and Vancouver Island. This would temper both rain and gales. I'd also have plenty of shelter: the San Juans abound in perfectly protected anchorages, with good depths and sticky mud that positively grabs an anchor. And I'd have this popular cruising ground almost entirely to myself, since few boats sail here in the winter.

This would also be a chance to visit friends who live in the islands. And in case conditions got really bad, I could even stop at some popular harbours like Friday and Roche, where I could hide in a marina and sip hot cocoa in town. Docks would be wide open, without the summer boats.

Sure it would be cold. Temperatures would hover around freezing for much of the sail. I'd be single-handing Kāholo, our 2012 Jeanneau Sun Odyssey 509. I'd sailed this boat across the Atlantic and Caribbean from Europe a few years back, and cruised here in this area. She was ready to go. Kāholo has roller furling all around, and all sail control lines lead aft, so she is quite easy to single-hand.

I hadn't had time to install heating, but thanks to Amazon, I did have a new portable diesel heater that I was just itching to try out.