Going full Circle

In the final instalment of his Arctic expedition, John and Cecienne pass through spectral villages and marvel at the beauty of Norway’s brisk waters one last time

- John Boyle

Only if you have ever made a voyage in your own boat will you understand the thrill, the satisfaction, and the emotion of arriving at your destination. And the Lofotens are worth every minute of the journey we have taken to get here.

As we travel further north, the weather improves and the sunshine actually carries some proper warm despite the fact that we are a couple of hundred miles north of the Arctic Circle. And in that clear clean sharp light, the islands look totally amazing – everything we had expected and hoped for. When we arrived in Norway it was snowing and I was wearing gloves; now several hundred miles further north, the gloves have gone and the sunroof and canopies are open.

The tourism websites promote the archipelago as a great place to view the Northern Lights in winter and play midnight golf in summer. Kayaking, hiking – and if you’re really crazy they have some good surf breaks where, because of the water temperature, you will never have to worry about crowds! But most of all, it is the stunning beauty of the islands that has drawn us here.

Still, no matter how much research you do before a trip, your actual arrival brings its own surprises. And the only thing no guidebook or website can prepare you for is the all-pervading smell of drying cod!