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Island Of Libations

Epicure Magazine

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April - May 2022

From Seminyak's speakeasy within a speakeasy to Indonesia's first natural wine bar, epicure finds out how the pandemic has not stop Bali’s bar scene from flourishing.

- Eve Tedja

Island Of Libations

Plenty has changed since Bali's first speakeasy bar opened in 2015. Back then, Baker Street Social was reverently whispered amongst those-in-the-know as the place to be for late-night tipples in Seminyak. Hidden from the plain sight atop a barbershop, there was nothing like it. Behind an unassuming door, a narrow room was dimly lit and furnished with chandeliers, chintz lounges and gilt mirrors. There was no menu. Guests could order according to their palate and preference - be it a twist of the classic or an entirely new concoction made from the house-ferments and infused spirits.

For the longest time, the cocktail menus in Bali were dominated by funky concoctions in neon colours and dubious ingredients. The general rule when one went for a night out was to stick with beer. Negroni was an unheard of cocktail. Speakeasy and the impression of committing a crime by going into a hidden bar was an entirely alien concept. It was not a surprise that it immediately became a hit.

SPEAKEASY, LOVE

Soon, Petitenget Street was the place to be. Highend, top-notch restaurants nestled side-by-side with post-dinner watering holes. 40 Thieves, opened in 2017, is concealed above a ramen joint. The New York-style speakeasy bar quickly became the place for pre-drink gatherings, after-work get-togethers and nightcaps where locals, tourists and expats would meet and mingle. Shah Dillon, the proprietor of The Midnight Brigade - operator of boutique bar concepts :- was responsible for turning 40 Thieves into the institution it is now.

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