The Land Before Time

Set in the world’s oldest desert, a stunning lodge in Namibia offers adventure and antidotes for modern travellers.

- Shamilee Vellu

“Hi! Wanna see Saturn?”

The booming voice, enthusiastic and startlingly close, rings out of the inky darkness, beckoning me even closer. Adjusting my eyes, I peer into a telescope as directed, squinting obediently. Soon enough, I’m looking at Saturn — bright, white, trembling at the edges but still defined, with its distinctive hula hoop of dust and rock. It takes my breath away.

The power of the Namib desert, as I discovered, lies in its ability to give you what you need, not what you think you want.

This isn’t readily apparent to those new to Namibia’s charms, even as websites and publications from Forbes to National Geographic rate the African country as one of 2020’s top destinations. Why travel so far to an empty desert, neophytes wonder, when you can head to the wildlife-packed plains of Botswana or Kenya?

The perfect place to ponder — and answer — this question is at AndBeyond Sossusvlei Desert Lodge in south-western Namibia. Set on a private 12,715-hectare reserve in the 55-million-year-old Namib desert, the lodge recently emerged from a nine-month-long, US$3 million ($4.2 million) overhaul. Johannesburg-based architect Jack Alexander and design firm Fox Browne Creative took charge of its dramatic transformation; there are 10 one-bedroom suites and a signature two-bedroom Star Dune suite to appeal to the unique sensibilities of today’s luxury travellers.