Crossing borders

Lagoon Dining brings an Asian flavour to Lygon Street’s expanding repertoire, writes MICHAEL HARDEN.

- MICHAEL HARDEN

Now that the former Lygon Food Store, a 66-year Italian veteran of Lygon Street, has become a modern Asian diner, it’s hard to resist the changing-of-the-guard story. And while it’s true that Lygon Street’s Italian accent is not as strong as it once was, the better story here is not about loss but gain. Lagoon Dining adds something fresh and relevant to the mix, bringing texture and depth to Lygon Street’s canvas.

Texture also comes to mind with Lagoon’s fit-out. The moodily lit room with its whitewashed brick walls, rough-edged black granite bar, mustard-coloured curtains at the front door, open kitchen, banquette seating and bright-yellow waving lucky cats is intimate and tactile. There’s texture on Lagoon’s mostly Chinese menu too, starting with a sensational hot-and-sour shredded potato dish. Chefs Keat Lee and Ned Trumble, who’ve previously worked together at Ezard and Longsong, nail simplicity and balance with these desiree spuds. They’re julienned, soaked overnight and chucked into a wok with garlic, chilli oil and Sichuan pepper so that they emerge with an enormously satisfying spice burn and barely cooked crunch. They’re splashed with Chinkiang vinegar and tossed with pickled enoki mushrooms, and should be on everyone’s radar.