The Algarve

Its year-round sun and dramatic coastline mean it’s already a much-loved beach holiday destination. But this southern Portuguese hotspot is upping its game, providing plenty to tempt wine lovers inland for a taste of something different

- BRIDGET MCGROUTHER

When the Romans reached the southwestern point of the Algarve, they thought it was the end of the world, where the waters of the ocean boiled at sunset. Yet despite the impending sense of doom (or perhaps because of it), they planted vines in the region, finding the temperate climate and fertile terroir a nirvana for wine-growing.

Fast forward to present times and it isn’t just the grapes that relish soaking up the rays, as beach lovers, walkers, cyclists, golfers and water sports enthusiasts all bask in their share of a reputed annual 300 days of sunshine. At first, the coastal vineyards lost out to the consequent package holiday boom of lucrative hotels and seaside resorts developed from the 1960s onwards. But in a land deeply rooted in winegrowing traditions, artisanal viticulture is re-emerging in a flourishing revival of indigenous red and white grape varieties, especially the revered Negra Mole (meaning ‘black soft’).

As enterprising estate owners become increasingly recognised for award-winning results, a new set of adventurous wine tourism thrill-seekers is fast being drawn to Portugal’s south. This final frontier of western Europe still has so many grapes yet to be tasted and explored, along with the region’s rich gastronomy, culture and dramatic landscapes.

Many vineyards are concentrated inland in what is known as the barrocal, bookended between the Atlantic and the rugged uplands with soils of sand, limestone, clay, shale and alluvium. Producers are working hard to safeguard the distinctive properties of the Algarve’s wines, particularly in the region’s four DOCs (or DOPs, west to east): Lagos, Portimão, Lagoa and Tavira.