Southern Rhône 2020

Following on from the northern Rhône 2020 report in our last issue, we delve into the year’s southern Rhône releases, based on a tasting of more than 1,200 wines. This vintage’s wines should be quite accessible when young, and there are some particularly noteworthy whites

- MATT WALLS

Some vintages, such as 2016 and 2018, produce one style of wine in the southern Rhône and a very different one in the northern Rhône. In 2020, however, that’s not the case – both the north and the south experienced similarly hot and dry growing conditions, resulting in a comparable style which, according to Frédéri Férigoule of Domaine le Sang des Cailloux, had much more finesse and elegance than 2019. The 2020 growth cycle saw flowering and fruit set start well, and after generous rains in April and May, the vines endured a hot, dry summer. The west bank of the river was hit by frost then hail, but the rest of the southern Rhône had a stress-free year. ‘There was nothing to do!’ said Julien Barrot of Domaine La Barroche.

Tasting the wines revealed that drought-related blockages in ripening were more widespread in the southern Rhône than in the north. This is something of a mixed blessing. Generally speaking, alcohol levels are lower than in recent years and the wines have a fresh, elegant profile. Others have a green streak and lack tannin and depth. But if you buy with care, there are plenty of wines with energy and verve that will offer balanced and refreshing early drinking.

WHO CAME OUT ON TOP?

Red wines from soils with plenty of water-retaining clay fared relatively well. Old vines with extensive root networks also managed to sustain themselves better throughout the summer.

‘All varieties did well this year,’ said Jacky Bernard, president of AP Vacqueyras, which was a particularly reliable appellation in 2020.