Rhône's sleeping beauties

Beyond the big-name appellations in the Rhône are a number of smaller, previously dormant areas that are starting to make a name for themselves once more. In the north, Brézème and Seyssuel are shining examples to look out for

- MATT WALLS

By 1965, the vineyards of Condrieu had largely been abandoned – phylloxera and two world wars had decimated the place and its people. There were just 8ha of vines remaining on these granite slopes. If it weren’t for the hard work of a few steadfast vignerons, the appellation might have disappeared entirely, reclaimed by the forest. Thankfully, Condrieu survived and has since flourished – but great appellations have been lost before. We know this because some have recently been rediscovered.

In fact, there are two very special terroirs at either end of the northern Rhône that are gradually returning to their former glory. These aren’t the only appellations making a comeback, but for now, Brézème to the south and Seyssuel to the north are the ones you need to know about. Their renaissance has begun.

Brézème

It wasn’t until Yves Mengin had retired from his accountancy role and moved to the village of Livron-sur-Drôme in the early 1990s that he first saw the hill of Brézème. A lifelong wine lover, it was immediately clear that, despite its overgrown state, this south-facing slope had magnificent potential. Establishing a vineyard wasn’t his original retirement plan, but, ‘I saw the abandoned hill,’ he says, ‘and I thought – why not me?’

Clambering up the slope, he found old stone terraces from previous vineyards, but the terrain was completely overgrown. It took him four years to clear the ground, rebuild the walls and replant vines. He named his estate Domaine des Quatre Cerises after the wild cherry trees he tore out to create his vineyard, and in tribute to his four children. His first vintage was 1998.