ROUSSILLON

In this proudly independent region, the individuality of its winemakers and the wide array of styles they produce are the perfect window into the character of France’s southwest. Rosemary George MW gives the lie of the land, and picks 12 fascinating wines to try

- Rosemary George MW

Roussillon is so often lumped somewhat unceremoniously in with the Languedoc, as one large region, when in reality it has a completely separate identity. Its history and traditions are quite different. It was part of Spain until the Treaty of the Pyrenees in 1659; Catalan, not Occitan, is spoken in the villages around Perpignan and the original reputation of the wines of Roussillon was based on what are rather clumsily called vin doux naturels, fortified wines, usually made from very ripe and therefore alcoholic Grenache grapes.

Table wines, or vins secs as they are called in the region, are a relatively recent development. The first appellations – Banyuls, Maury and Rivesaltes – were all vin doux, recognised among the early appellations in France at the end of the 1930s; the first appellation for vin sec was Collioure in 1971, with Côtes du Roussillon and Côtes du Roussillon Villages following in 1977. Maury Sec is a much more recent addition, in 2011.

Scenic backdrop

Essentially, Roussillon equates to the department of the Pyrénées-Orientales. Its boundaries are limited by the Pyrenees, with the Canigou the highest peak, at 2,785m, providing an important landmark. To the north, the foothills of the Corbières massif separate it from the Languedoc vineyards of Corbières, with landmarks such as the ruined Cathar castle of Quéribus and the lookout tower of Tautavel dominating the skyline.