Ciao, Bella

With Spritzes on tap, wood-fired pizza and a prime spot on the Yarra, Arbory Afloat is an Italo party not to be missed, writes MICHAEL HARDEN.

- Michael Harden

“Italian beach club on the Yarra” sounds like the punchline to a joke or maybe an ironic band name. But it’s also an accurate description of Arbory Afloat: a 69-metre 850-capacity pontoon that’ll be moored beside Flinders Street Station until the weather cools.

Decked out with orange-and-white and green-and-white-striped furniture and umbrellas, planters filled with citrus trees, canopied daybeds, a central bar and a constant party soundtrack played at Italian beach club volume, it’s a surprisingly successful facsimile of the sort of place you’d find on the Amalfi Coast. Sure, there’s an absence of spectacular sea cliffs, and the Yarra is not quite the same sparkling turquoise as the Mediterranean, but Arbory Afloat still manages to channel the magic. Respect.

The food from chef Nick Bennett plays a major part in its success. The quality of Arbory Afloat’s fish and chips, for example, is remarkable. Even allowing for the lowered expectations that come with its semi-permanent status, this version is outstanding.