An oral history of George Greenough and friends’ mythical session during the massive West Coast swell of ‘69
Shortboard revolutionary George Greenough had seen reports on the evening news of homes being damaged by the swell on the North Shore of Oahu the day before, and he knew something wicked was approaching. So on the morning of December 5, he grabbed his trusty red spoon and headed down to Rincon. What follows is an oral account of a swell that redefined what was possible at the Queen of the Coast, as told by Greenough and friends Kirk Putnam and Mike Davis.
George Greenough: My paddle out was easy; the swell was just starting to show. Then it hit. Every set was bigger than the last.
Kirk Putnam: We arrived at Rincon at about 1:00 p.m., parking along the highway 200 yards past the Cove. There were cameras and the hero guys were pulling up.
Esta historia es de la edición Volume 59, Issue 1 de Surfer.
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Esta historia es de la edición Volume 59, Issue 1 de Surfer.
Comience su prueba gratuita de Magzter GOLD de 7 días para acceder a miles de historias premium seleccionadas y a más de 9,000 revistas y periódicos.
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