UNTAMED SATPURA

AN ENCHANTING BLEND OF LUXURY AND NATURE, JEHAN NUMA WILDERNESS IN CENTRAL INDIA IS WHERE ROYAL LEGACIES PROVIDE A GATEWAY TO CONSERVATION

- CHANDREYI BANDYOPADHYAY

IN HIS 1871 BOOK, "THE HIGHLANDS OF Central India," Captain James Forsyth vividly describes the Pachmarhi plateau, writing, "To the south, as far as the eye can see, lie range upon range of forest-covered hills, tumbled in wild confusion..."

A hush blankets the forest road leading to the discreet entrance of Reni Pani, a jungle lodge named for its lush, fruit-bearing Reni trees. Aly Rashid welcomes me at a modest pavilion, and together we stroll along forested paths recounting legacy. "Growing up, Satpura was our family camping and riding destination during school holidays. I have a very deep connection with this park and the lodge," he informs with characteristic politeness.

A WILD LEGACY

Arriving in India in 1857 as the Deputy Commissioner of the Central Provinces, Forsyth documented the region's life and landscapes, creating an enduring record. He noted how "aboriginal tribes" revered trees and nature spirits yet also observed extensive deforestation driven by indigenous slashand-burn farming and colonial clear-cutting for railroad expansion. Today, Satpura is a sought-after destination for luxury wildlife holidays thanks to years of conservation efforts by the Madhya Pradesh Forest Department, supported by families like the Rashids, the former royals of Bhopal.

In 1983, brothers Yawar and Nadir Rashid embarked on a journey to preserve Jehan Numa Begum's heritage through the Jehan Numa Group, envisioning a collection of luxury experiences in and around Bhopal.

As I sip a warm cup of ginger and honey tea at the cosy wood-panelled "Gol-Ghar" (the main dining and lounge), head naturalist Siddharth Gogoi briefs me about the lodge's unique charm. "We don't have intercoms or room service. To summon a staff member at night, simply blow the horn in your room.

Don't wander out alone," he says.