Chasing Sunsets, Sea Gypsies, and a Decade-Old Diving Dream

A TRYST WITH THE UNDERWATER WONDERS OF MALAYSIA'S SIPADAN

- Words & Photographs → KIRAN JAIN

IN 2014, I FOUND MYSELF AT THE height of my thrill-seeking phase, chasing one adrenaline rush after another—from skydiving to bungee jumping.

The first time I dipped my face underwater to snorkel and saw the vibrant corals and fishes, the world above disappeared. I knew I had to explore this world further.

A few months later, in an unexpected twist, a Tinder date turned out to be an experienced scuba diver—proof that sometimes even an algorithm gets it right. He introduced me to Sipadan, one of the world’s top diving sites, and it immediately became a dream destination. That dream, however, came with a catch: only advanced scuba divers were permitted to dive there.

The irony? I couldn't even swim then. I suddenly remembered my childhood when my mother had insisted I learn the skill but I never did. The regret was instant. Over the next few years, what began as a fleeting curiosity turned into a decade-long pursuit. I took my first swimming lessons and earned my scuba certification in 2018. The next step was advanced training, but COVID had other plans. Between work, routine, and two failed attempts at securing diving permits, the dream kept getting postponed.

In 2024, everything finally aligned, and I booked that flight.

Reaching Sipadan was no easy task. Two flights, two immigrations, a 110-km cab ride, and one boat transfer later, I arrived at Mabul Island, home to Scuba Junkie, the dive resort that would be my base for the next few days. Sipadan was still another boat ride away. With none of my friends into hardcore diving, this was a journey I had to make alone.

At the resort, I met people from all over the world: solo travellers, seasoned divers, and first-timers, all chasing the same dream. Between dives and meals, we bonded over the ocean, a quiet connection that needed no words.