The Jewels Of Costa Rica

A Long-time Birdwatcher Describes His Travels To The Lush Rainforests Of Costa Rica

- ASHISH KOTHARI

IT CAN’T BE,” I SAID TO MYSELF. I RUBBED MY eyes and looked through the binoculars again. The apparition was still there—it was moving its head, flicking its tail up and down, and showing that it had no intention of vanishing like a mirage does when one shifts one's position.

I was staring open-mouthed at a resplendent quetzal, about as appropriately named a bird as any bird could be. In the verdant rainforests of Costa Rica, I was lucky to see not one but four individuals of this species, including an adult male with his ridiculously showy tail, another one splendid in his shiny green and shocking red outfit, and a couple of females that were not quite as fancily dressed but nevertheless took my breath away. They did not seem particularly bothered by my group’s presence, feasting as they were on wild avocados and flying from one tree to another in search of the tastiest fruit.

A LAND BURSTING WITH BIRDS

In late June 2024, I travelled down the western and southern coast of Costa Rica, visiting fishing communities and nature reserves with my hosts who were members of Coope Solidar. They are a group of professionals who find the balance between conservation issues and development activities by working with local communities.

For decades before this trip, I’d heard that the country was a mecca for birders and naturalists so my expectations were high. I got what I bargained for; no matter where I went on the island, there was something evoking a “Wow,” followed by a quick scramble to focus the binoculars or camera, a flip through the bird guidebook I was carrying and a “What is that?” query to my guide. On many occasions, I did not even want to spend time jotting down the names in my notebook, afraid that I would miss something interesting in those few seconds.