KEEPERS OF THE CRAFT

FROM REVIVING TRADITIONAL WEAVES TO CONTEMPORISING THEM WITH MODERN SILHOUETTES, THESE DESIGNERS ARE COMMITTED TO KEEPING THE LOOM TURNING WITH A FRESH TAKE ON HERITAGE TEXTILES

- SHREYA CHEEMA

JIGMAT COUTURE

THE DEPICTION OF A Mahasiddha Tantipa (weaver) working a type of foot loom in the rock-cut Gon-Nila-Phuk Caves, located in a village called Saspol, is evidence that weaving in Ladakh can be traced to the 12th century. And that is just the tip of the iceberg.

Various historical and socio-economic factors have shaped Ladakh’s weaving practices. While being vital crossroads on the Silk Route meant the prestigious silk brocade flourished under the royal family’s patronage, the nomadic pastoralists of Changthang fought the biting cold by giving the world “soft gold” or pashmina.

Despite this longstanding history, when Jigmat Couture’s founders, Jigmat Norbu and Jigmat Wangmo, returned to Ladakh in 2008 after studying textile design, they realised that the region’s legacy was still a secret. “When we were designing custom pieces for our wedding, I had to get most of the silk brocade fabric during my travels in China. I realised the beautiful local textiles, traditionally used domestically, weren't being commercially explored. There were not a lot of tailors or design studios working with them,” says Norbu.

As a result, after two years of research, the husband-wife duo set up their eponymous label. Committed to preserving and reviving Ladakh’s textile heritage, their designs are not just made using locally crafted weaves but are also inspired by traditional silhouettes.

For example, the overlays from the “Lungmar” collection are fashioned after the traditional Shanglak robe (made using sheep skin) worn by the Changpas. Like the traditional garb, these also feature elegant Tibetan silk brocade and felt applique. Even more contemporary silhouettes like trousers, vests, and dresses feature hand-embroidered traditional patterns on native woollen textiles that are naturally dyed.