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I skipped the Cotswolds for this underrated Welsh valley

Western Mail

|

October 25, 2025

... And it's even better in autumn, finds Portia Jones

LET the record show: I'm a market town girl at heart. I adore twee villages with historic buildings, meandering rivers, boutique shops, and cosy pubs. But, as it turns out, so does everyone else.

The Cotswolds are stunning - no argument there. But almost year-round their honey-coloured villages, including Bourton-on-the-Water, Stow-on-the-Wold, and Lower Slaughter, are packed with coachloads of snap-happy tourists.

A councillor recently lamented that visitors were “exploiting the destination’s heritage for clicks”. Bourton-on-the-Water, aka the Venice of the Cotswolds, has apparently become the ultimate backdrop for selfies and reels.

“This kind of visitor has little interest in heritage, culture, or nature,” councillor Jon Wareing told the BBC. “They're the ultimate hit-and-run tourist.” Translation: look, post, leave.

So, while the Cotswolds may be Instagram-famous, I found a quieter, prettier escape. And it didn't require elbowing my way past happy snappers living their best life.

Rather than join the masses, fight for a parking space, and elbow my way into a boutique tearoom this autumn I went to the Wye Valley and the Forest of Dean, which offer a tranquil and picturesque alternative to the Cotswolds.

Bordering Wales and England this area of natural beauty features similar rolling countryside, attractive market towns, and hiking trails but with fewer crowds. It's especially beautiful in the autumn for 'leaf peeping' when the trees show off a dazzling array of colour.

The market towns and villages of the Wye Valley also offer a less crowded alternative to the busy Cotswolds blending historical buildings, local culture, and proper pubs.

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